Is it possible that the best roast suckling pig in Spain is prepared in Madrid?
Forgive us in Ávila and Segovia, but we think so.
I don't know if the Coque Restaurant It is the best, but it is certainly different and certainly my favorite.
That of the Sandoval brothers (Mario, Rafael and Diego) is a contemporary haute cuisine restauranta, but they - who are smart as hunger - have had the success of not forgetting where they come from, to know with certainty where they are going. As they have never denied their origins, they kept the vault oven that their grandfather had built in the kitchen of his restaurant - which was a steakhouse - when they were not even born. Although Mario moves with ease between the foams and spherifications (and has won the South of Madrid for the cause of contemporary haute cuisine) He has continued roasting the piglets that have given so much fame to the house.
And what do Coke piglets have that others don't have? Several things. They are of a different race, which comes from the crossing of the Durock and Pietrain races, while those of Segovia and Ávila are a mixture of Landrace and Large White. They are raised on a farm owned by the Sandoval family, with all kinds of pampering and care, for that they are the jewel in the crown. Piglets of very white meat, which are sacrificed with 17 days of life, when they weigh 3.5 kg (one kilogram less than in Segovia) and have not tried another food other than breast milk. In addition, they are not “stranded,” that is, they have not undergone bleaching treatments as is done in many slaughterhouses.
The method of elaboration is also different. Piglets They are spread with oil, salt and a few drops of vinegar (neither butter, nor any other kind of oil). Then they are placed with the skin down on metal grids (and not in a clay pot). In the lower part a tray is collecting the fat released by the animal. After an hour they are turned around to be roasted on the other side. In an hour and a half more they are ready. Just before taking them to the table they are given a blow of grill on oak embers. In three minutes the skin is completely curled, and is impregnated with the aroma of coal.
"Our oven - explains Mario Sandoval - domed, with a rotating refractory wheel, is fed with oak wood, but indirectly. The home is isolated from the chamber where the pieces are roasted." The result is magnificent pieces, of clean scents, tender and unctuous meat, and crispy, shiny and curly skin, which detaches itself from fat and inflates like a suflé. Evidence that with an elementary technique you can achieve outstanding results.
The challenge that has been set now Sandoval is to expand the use he gives to this Ferrari of roasts that is the oven that his grandfather installed. “Given the possibilities we have started working with vegetables, fish and meat, all roasted - Sandoval explains - and with different woods that Rafael - with his good smell - selects. Let's see what we get. The experiments with tubers and bulbs (beets, sauces, potatoes, onions, squash, celery) have been a success because when cooked without water, they are cooked in their own juice and the flavors are concentrated. With the meat and fish we get magnificent textures ”.
In September they will release a roast menu that will be called “More Wood” and will be made entirely in the wood oven. And this is not the only novelty. The interesting works done with the egg (hydrolyzed egg white and yolk) have given among other fruits a spectacular sky bacon and several industrial applications. And they already announce the inauguration of a new store in the heart of Madrid, next to the new casino that will open in the Plaza de Colón. We look forward to it!
The Sandoval brothers © Coque Restaurant