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Editor'S Choice - 2020

Restaurant of the week: Bagá, the new culinary jewel of Andalusia

Pedro Sánchez's restaurant is a gastronomic temple

Bagá, the new culinary jewel of Andalusia © Bagá

Pedro Sanchez -Let's leave Pedrito for the compadreo of the networks and those taverns that he likes so much- he is a cook of a huge talent. Of intelligent shyness, of slow and discreet genius, of serene knowledge and technique carved between France and its Jaén.

Almost unintentionally he has opened a “Hedge a la jienense ”, a space with a direct and precise kitchen, without intermediaries, in which the cooks cook and finish dishes in front of the diner and everything happens in a cave of thirty square meters in which that little madness called Bagá This is what has led him to win a Michelin star in the recent delivery gala of La Rouge

Bagá, direct and precise cuisine © Bagá

Pedro Sánchez's kitchen escapes at conventional descriptions. Owns a simplicity disconcerting in appearance and of a sensitivity very unusual towards the product and the palate the client's.

It is spontaneous, essential and candid. It does not pursue the show, but the pleasure.

In that pursuit of purity, it may suffer from a certain complexity sometimes or fall into the reiteration of schemes - those binomials of product plus emulsion - but it gets brilliant results in most of the proposals.

In that kind of "jam session gastronomic ”proposed by Bagá becomes complicated highlight Some dishes above others. However, on the last visit, some Maresme peas in roasted corn cob juice with black butter they went straight to the brain. Sweetness, smoke and fat In a brilliant combination.

Next to this, dishes that have earned a place in their private recipe book and are already classics -more and more refined, by the way- from his repertoire: Motril Quilts pickled partridge; Carrueco (pumpkin) and boiler blood sausage fritters; coconut and almond ajoblanco with a pineapple and basil slush or the delicate and mineral Choto kidneys with caviar.

Pigeon of Bagá © Bagá

But this kitchen does not stop here. Sanchez assumes extreme risks and he does it with boldness and judgment: his hedgehog roe with parfait pigeon and game juice is an extreme sea and mountain, outstanding, and its Caviar Cured Breast in Caviar play to the limit.

As extravagant as it may seem, caviar provides less salt and some complexity to the breast, which remains with a smooth and pleasant texture. The caviar in turn is mixed with a pate of the interiors of the scholarship that is pure umami. That because? Because they know, why they can and why they want.

Pedro, always seconded by his faithful squires -David in the kitchen; Fran, in charge of the wines, and Mapi, in the room - has created the first izakaya Spanish in the middle of Jaén.

In that minimal space and with serious limitations of Calle Reja de la Capilla, a menu is served that is almost a kaiseki (food based on Japanese dishes served in small portions) Andalusian, full of identity, freedom and flavor.

Practice, in addition, a rigorous respect of the product, however humble, and harmonies that seek boost it or contrast it. If we add a friendly treatment, almost familiar, and a more than remarkable wine selection that pays close attention to those of Jerez, We have one of the most interesting places in Andalusia. A little gem that, when finished polishing, will be one of the brightest stars region of.

Royal lettuce, razors and aniseed © Bagá

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